Gravel Cycling Shoes

Gravel Shoes: Finding the Right Pair

Gravel shoe options have gotten complicated with all the stiffness levels and closure systems flying around. As someone whose road shoes weren’t cutting it on gravel rides, I learned everything there is to know about why dedicated gravel shoes make a difference.

Too slippery when walking, too stiff for mixed terrain. Bought gravel-specific shoes and the improvement was immediate.

Why Gravel-Specific Matters

Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Road shoes are optimized for pure pedaling efficiency. Mountain bike shoes prioritize off-bike traction. Gravel shoes split the difference – stiff enough for long rides, grippy enough for stream crossings and hike-a-bikes.

You can ride gravel in road shoes, but the first time you have to walk over wet rocks or scramble up a trail, you’ll understand why gravel shoes exist.

The Stiffness Question

Stiffer soles transfer power better. But gravel rides often involve walking, and stiff soles on rocks and roots are a recipe for sliding around.

Most gravel shoes land in the middle – stiffer than hiking shoes, more flexible than road shoes. The sweet spot depends on how much walking your rides involve. Bikepacking with frequent dismounts? Go more flexible. Mostly pedaling with occasional gravel? Stiffer works.

I started too stiff and regretted it on a ride with an unexpected hike-a-bike section. Now I lean toward moderate stiffness.

Tread and Grip

The sole’s tread pattern matters more than I expected. Aggressive lugs grip mud and loose surfaces but can feel awkward on the pedal. Shallower treads pedal smoothly but slip on wet terrain.

My shoes have medium lugs that work for both. Not perfect at either extreme, but good enough for the variety of conditions I encounter.

Rubber compound matters too. Softer rubber grips better but wears faster. The tradeoff is real.

Cleat Systems

Most gravel shoes use two-bolt mountain bike cleats, not the three-bolt road system. The two-bolt setup lets cleats recess into the sole, making walking easier and keeping cleats from scraping on rocks.

SPD, Crankbrothers, and Time all work. I use SPDs because they’re what I had and parts are easy to find. The specific system matters less than having a recessed cleat.

Some gravel riders go with flat pedals. Perfectly valid choice, especially for more technical terrain where frequent foot-down moments happen.

Closure Systems

BOA dials let you micro-adjust fit while riding. Handy when your feet swell mid-ride or you need to loosen things for a climb. The downside: BOA systems can break in crashes, and trailside repair isn’t always easy.

Velcro straps are simpler and more field-repairable. Less precise adjustment, but plenty of riders prefer them.

Traditional laces look good and adjust easily, but can come untied and snag on chainrings. Lace locks help but add fuss.

I’ve used all three. BOA is my preference now, but I wouldn’t turn down a well-designed velcro shoe.

Fit Considerations

Gravel rides are often long. Hours in the saddle with plenty of pedaling. A shoe that feels fine for 30 minutes can become a hotspot nightmare at hour four.

Slightly more room than road shoes works better for gravel. Your feet swell, especially in heat. A half-size up from your road shoe size is common advice.

Width matters too. Some brands run narrow, others accommodate wider feet. Know your foot shape before ordering online.

Water Resistance

Gravel means unpaved, and unpaved often means puddles, streams, and mud. Fully waterproof shoes exist but trap sweat. Water-resistant uppers shed light moisture while still breathing.

I don’t worry too much about waterproofing. Wet feet dry. But if you ride in consistently wet conditions, something with treated material helps.

What I Ended Up With

That’s what makes finding the right gravel shoes endearing to us riders who’ve dialed in their setup. Shimano RX8s have been my go-to. Stiff enough for efficiency, walkable tread, BOA closure, reasonable weight. Not cheap, but they’ve held up through rough conditions.

Before buying, I tried multiple brands at a local shop. Fit varies so much between manufacturers that trying them on mattered more than reviews.

Breaking Them In

New gravel shoes need time to break in. Don’t take them on a big ride immediately. A few shorter rides let the materials soften and reveal any problem spots before you’re committed to a long day.

Minor hotspots sometimes resolve with break-in. Major fit issues won’t. Return shoes that hurt rather than hoping they’ll improve.

Worth the Specific Purchase?

If you ride gravel regularly, yes. The combination of pedaling efficiency and off-bike capability matters for how gravel rides actually go. Using road shoes or MTB shoes works, but dedicated gravel shoes do the job better.