Tubeless Sealant That Works

Tubeless Sealant: What Actually Works

Tubeless sealant advice has gotten complicated with all the brand debates and DIY recipes flying around. As someone who made a mess of my first tubeless setup, I learned everything there is to know about getting sealant right after dealing with pools of it in the wrong part of the tire.

Sealant everywhere – on my garage floor, on my hands, dripping from the rim. Eventually got it right, and now I won’t go back to tubes.

How It Works

Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Sealant is a liquid inside your tire that seals punctures as they happen. When something punctures the tire, air rushes out and carries sealant to the hole. The particles in the sealant clot and plug the gap, often so fast you don’t even notice something went through.

It’s not magic – large cuts or sidewall damage won’t seal. But for the thorns, glass, and small debris that cause most flats, sealant handles it while you keep riding.

Latex vs. Non-Latex

Most sealants are latex-based. Stan’s, Orange Seal, Muc-Off – all latex. They seal quickly and work well for most riders. The downside: they dry out over months and need replenishment.

Non-latex sealants like those from Finish Line or specialty brands last longer but may seal slower. Some people have latex allergies, making non-latex necessary. For most riders, latex-based sealant works fine.

How Much to Use

More isn’t necessarily better. Too much adds weight and creates sloshing noises. Too little won’t seal punctures reliably.

General guidelines: 60-90ml for road and gravel tires, 90-120ml for mountain bike tires. Higher volume tires need more sealant. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific setup.

Adding Sealant

Two methods work. First: remove the valve core, inject sealant through the valve stem with a syringe or squeeze bottle. Second: unseat one side of the tire, pour sealant directly into the tire, reseat and inflate.

Valve method is cleaner for top-ups. Direct pour works better for initial setup when you’re seating the bead anyway.

Shake the bottle before pouring. The particles settle and you’ll end up with watery sealant that doesn’t seal anything.

When to Refresh

Sealant dries out over time. Heat and low humidity accelerate this. Check every 2-4 months depending on conditions. I check before any big ride or race.

To check: remove the valve core and poke a thin stick or zip tie through to feel the liquid inside. If it’s mostly dried, add fresh sealant. If there’s still liquid sloshing around, you’re probably fine.

Some people top off every month. Others go six months and wonder why their sealant looks like cottage cheese when they finally check. Find a middle ground.

What I Use

Stan’s NoTubes has been reliable for me – it seals quickly and doesn’t seem to dry out as fast as cheaper options. Orange Seal is popular in the gravel community and works well too. Muc-Off’s purple sealant is newer but getting good reviews.

I’ve tried generic or homebrew sealants and they were fine for casual riding but didn’t seal as reliably under pressure. For important rides, I stick with established brands.

When Sealant Isn’t Enough

Bigger punctures spray sealant before sealing. You’ll see a mist of white liquid shooting out before it clogs. Sometimes spinning the wheel gets sealant to the hole faster.

Really big holes won’t seal at all. That’s when you need a plug kit – bacon strips or similar – to give the sealant something to cling to. I carry a dynaplug on every ride now.

Sidewall cuts are the enemy. Sealant can’t handle them. If you slash a sidewall, you’re putting in a tube or calling for a ride. This happens rarely but it does happen.

The Mess Factor

That’s what makes tubeless maintenance endearing to us cyclists who’ve figured it out. Sealant stains. It gets on clothes, floors, and hands. Keep rags nearby when working with it. Wear gloves if you don’t want purple or white stains on your fingers.

Old, dried sealant forms a layer inside the tire that you’ll need to pick out eventually. It’s gross but part of maintenance. Some people clean tires completely before adding fresh sealant; I’m lazier and just add more on top of the residue.