Places to Ride Gravel Bikes

Gravel Bikes: What They Are and Whether You Need One

Gravel bike marketing has gotten complicated with all the competing claims flying around. As someone who resisted the trend for years — seemed like marketing nonsense, just ride a road bike on gravel — I learned everything there is to know about this category after borrowing one for a weekend. Today, I’ll share when they actually make sense.

What Makes a Gravel Bike

Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Imagine a road bike that’s been roughed up. Drop handlebars like a road bike, but wider tire clearance, more relaxed geometry, usually disc brakes.

Key difference from road bikes: fit tires up to 40-50mm wide with room for mud. Road bikes max out around 28-32mm.

Key difference from mountain bikes: drop bars, faster rolling on pavement, no suspension.

Where Gravel Bikes Excel

That’s what makes gravel bikes endearing to us adventure riders — mixed terrain riding. Start on pavement, turn onto gravel road, maybe hit light trails, back to pavement. A gravel bike handles all of it without being terrible at any.

Bikepacking and touring: Wide tire clearance and mounting points for bags make them natural touring machines.

Bad roads: If your local pavement is garbage, wider tires at lower pressure smooth things out.

Adventure riding: When you want to explore without worrying about surface.

Where They’re Compromised

Pure road speed: A road bike with narrow tires is faster on smooth pavement. If you only ride good roads, gravel bike is unnecessary.

Technical trails: A mountain bike with suspension handles rocks, roots, and drops far better.

Weight: Heavier than race-focused road bikes due to beefier frames and components.

Tire Width Choices

35-40mm: Faster, suitable for mostly smooth gravel and pavement.

40-45mm: Sweet spot for mixed terrain. Good volume for comfort and grip without being slow.

45-50mm: Maximum cushion and grip. Slower on pavement but handles rough stuff better.

You can swap tires based on conditions. That flexibility is part of the appeal.

Handlebars: Flared or Not

Many gravel bikes come with flared drop bars — drops angle outward. More control descending rough terrain, wider hand positioning for stability.

Some love flared bars, others find them awkward on the hoods. Try both if possible.

1x vs 2x Drivetrains

1x (single chainring): Simpler, lighter, no front derailleur, less chain drop risk. Wide-range cassettes compensate.

2x (double chainring): More gear range and tighter gaps. Better for mixed terrain with steep climbs and fast flats.

Most gravel bikes now come 1x. Fine for most terrain. Serious climbing or road-like gear spacing? Consider 2x.

Budget Considerations

$1,000-1,500: Entry-level aluminum, mechanical disc brakes. Reliable if basic.

$1,500-3,000: Better components, possibly carbon forks, hydraulic brakes. Noticeable quality jump.

$3,000+: Full carbon, premium groupsets. Diminishing returns for recreational riders.

Do You Need One?

Already own road bike and mountain bike? Probably not. Between those, most terrain is covered.

Want one bike doing everything reasonably well? Gravel bike is strong choice, especially for mixed surfaces or bikepacking.

Only ride smooth roads? Stick with road bike. Only ride trails? Get mountain bike.

The gravel bike is for people who want to say “yes” to whatever path they encounter without worrying whether their bike can handle it.