Bike Brake Types Explained

Bike Brakes: Understanding Your Options

Bike brake selection has gotten complicated with all the technologies and compatibility issues flying around. As someone who assumed brakes were brakes until I learned brake type affects stopping power, maintenance, and even wheel compatibility, I learned everything there is to know about the options. Today, I’ll share what actually matters.

Rim Brakes: The Traditional Option

Probably should have led with this section, honestly. Rim brakes squeeze pads against the wheel rim to slow you down. Standard for decades, still work fine for many riders.

Advantages: Light, simple, easy to adjust and maintain, compatible with standard wheels.

Disadvantages: Performance drops when wet. Wears down wheel rims over time. Heat buildup on long descents can be dangerous with carbon rims.

Most road bikes from 2018 and earlier use rim brakes. Not obsolete — just being phased out on new bikes.

Caliper vs Cantilever

Caliper brakes mount on a single bolt above the wheel. Standard on road bikes. Dual-pivot designs have good power and modulation.

Cantilever/V-brakes mount on frame bosses on either side. Found on older mountain bikes, cyclocross, and touring bikes. They clear wider tires better.

Disc Brakes: The New Standard

That’s what makes disc brakes endearing to us all-weather riders — consistent stopping in any conditions. They squeeze a rotor attached to the hub instead of the rim itself.

Advantages: Consistent stopping in all weather. Don’t wear out wheels. Better heat management. More powerful with less effort.

Disadvantages: Heavier. Require different wheels and frames. Can squeal if contaminated. Bleeding hydraulic lines requires knowledge.

Mechanical vs Hydraulic Disc

Mechanical: Use cables like rim brakes. Simpler, cheaper, easier to adjust trailside. But require more lever force and regular adjustment.

Hydraulic: Use fluid instead of cables. Self-adjusting, more powerful, better feel. But need occasional bleeding, harder to fix roadside.

For most riders, hydraulic is worth it. The performance difference is significant.

Rotor Sizes

Bigger rotors = more stopping power and better heat management. Smaller = lighter weight.

Common: 140mm, 160mm, 180mm, 200mm+. Road bikes run 140-160mm. Mountain bikes run 180-200mm+ for serious descending.

What Should You Choose?

For new bikes, disc brakes are the direction. The industry has shifted.

If you have a rim brake bike that works, no urgent reason to switch. Perfectly adequate for dry weather and casual use.

If you ride in rain, descend long hills, or want consistent braking, discs are worth it.

Maintenance Matters

Rim brakes: Check pad wear, replace when thin. Clean rims periodically. Adjust cable tension as needed.

Disc brakes: Check pad thickness, replace before metal on metal. Keep rotors clean. Bleed hydraulic lines when brakes feel spongy.

Good brakes poorly maintained are worse than basic brakes well maintained.